Critics Laud Simplicity at Jil Sander, Embrace Tacky-Sweet Touches at Prada - Nymag.com
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Looks from Prada, Fendi, and Jil SanderPhoto: Imaxtree
The critics have left Milan for the final leg of spring 2012 Fashion Week. The reviews from Italy were largely glowing, from the modernist Jil Sander collection to the auto-inspired dresses at Prada and "seaside chic" looks at Versace. Still, there were a few missteps: Cathy Horyn found Gucci's collection "befuddling," while WWD asserted that the Versace show "lacked oomph." Read the full report below.
THE HITS:
Jil Sander
[A] firmly modernist view expressed in almost every detail gorgeously and surprisingly expansive . This may have been Mr. Simonss sexiest collection for Jil. [On the Runway/NYT]
The lean, tailored, below-the-knee lines of Simons' dresses were all about complete mastery of his mtier, same quality you'd recognize in a couturier, an architect, an artist Emblematic, also, of a more hope-filled era. [Style.com]
[W]e were treated to a show whose pure simplicity was refreshing and whose unique point of view made us feel as if fashion week had just begun. [Vogue UK]
[A] sophisticated collection Chic and cleanly imagined as ever, but with a bit of measured whimsy in the mix. [Fashion Week Daily]
[A] perfect fusion of high chic and high-mindedness Every move Simons made, every cut, every seam, every combination, he put forth with obvious deliberation the collection dripped with chic and a clear sense of the modernity he had set out to capture. [WWD]
See the Full Spring 2012 Jil Sander Collection.
Prada
The celluloid iconography was irresistible [T]he rest of the world should feel just as uplifted when the double whammy of Prada menswear and womenswear hits stores next spring. Dare you not to smile. [Style.com]
[The collection included] lots of separates that are easier to integrate into your wardrobe than Pradas last collection [bags and jewelry] might even be tacky-sweet in the Prada tradition. [On the Runway/NYT]
But every season Miuccia takes a new turn and, every season, we go with her If a good collection means a new idea perfectly executed, then Miuccia Prada comes top of the class. [Vogue UK]
[A] gloriously high-concept process Guaranteed to sell out, all of it Pre-ordering Prada? It's the only way to go. [Fashion Week Daily]
[A] zesty collection of images inspired by [the automobile] The show also underlined Prada's recent obsession with Americana. [Fashion Wire Daily]
In the hands of Miuccia Prada, pretty looks pretty darned spectacular. Once again, Prada left her audience breathless with a spring collection dazzling on many levels: its refinement, its subtle intricacy, its modesty yes, modesty that was ironic or not, as suits your pleasure. [WWD]
See the Full Spring 2012 Prada Collection.
Fendi
The appealing thing about the Fendi show was the easy, just-above-the-knee skirts and dresses in mens shirt stripes. [On the Runway/NYT]
There was a studious, masculine-feminine interplay But then we were into the ur-Fendi zone, where a certain madness takes hold. [Style.com]
[Black dresses] were just as demure but brilliantly attention-seeking and beautifully constructed. There is a lot more to this Fendi woman than first meets the eye. [Vogue UK]
[P]olished, a little vampy, and mostly crisp [a sheer black pinafore] was dichotomously naughty-innocent perfection! [Fashion Week Daily]
[I]t was striking to see this spring 2012 collection, with its grown up sensibility and sense of polished achievement this was all about honestly crafted chic. [Fashion Wire Daily]
[A] wealth of chic, grown-up clothes that felt very real and ultra-inviting he sure brought a shot of luxe flamboyance to the bright of day. [WWD]
See the Full Spring 2012 Fendi Collection.
MIXED:
Gucci
[M]ismatched prints got too complicated, and a sidetrack into harem pants would have been better avoided. Still, the evening clothes in particular will ensure that Gucci's 91st year, like so many before it, is a success. [Style.com]
Ms. Giannini was definitely not in the zone The whole thing was a bit stiff and befuddling Indeed, the sources of inspiration could have been inanimate objects. [On the Runway/NYT]
It was as glossy as ever from Gucci there was the old Gucci sex goddess too this was a fantastically Italian wake-up call. [Vogue UK]
[A] roaring Great Gatsby-themed show dolled-up dames in swanky flapper-worthy separates And it wouldn't be Milano without a touch of opulent trappings. [Fashion Week Daily]
[A] hard-edged counter blast, an Art Deco moment of haute glamour However, as a show it was just that tad too repetitive. [Fashion Wire Daily]
[S]olidly on trend without straying from the designers own, ever more confident wavelength It made for one successful shimmy the kind that will shake on off the runway looking all as good on client, celebrity and civilian alike. [WWD]
See the Full Spring 2012 Gucci collection.
Versace
This was a Versace command performance, very far from the humdrum of Milans flapper girls and hot-rod prints light and sophisticated. [On the Runway/NYT]
[A] sizzling fashion collection, one that marked a new lan in this storied house after all the seaside chic, the show did end in triumph. [Fashion Wire Daily]
There is no way to judge [the collection] outside its own contextand that context is Donatella Which makes this collection a test of the power of personality in fashion. [Style.com]
The entire collection oozed Versace sex appeal and the glossiest, poutiest glamour imaginable Donatella is giving the mainline everything shes got and reminding us what its all about. [Vogue UK]
Donatella Versaces spring show had all the markings of a glamour fest that felt both unmistakably signature and a bit surprising Yet for all the work of this collection its intricacies were countless it lacked that racy oomph factor that makes the best of Versaces collections so engaging. [WWD]
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